I am the Queen of the Issy Alps 100! At least that is what
good friend Tracy Brown calls me. Maybe it is fitting. After all, I have the
most finishes, completing 3 out of 4 tries, the first person to do the downhill
and uphill routes.
It all started 3 years ago when George Orozco put together an
amazing route starting at Mailbox Peak and ending in the Issy Alps at Tiger. The
first year, George, me, and Deby Kumasaka tried to complete the 100 mile, and a
bunch of other people were attempting the 50K and 100K. Because of heavy snow
the night before the event, there were no 100K and 100 mile finishers. We were
all humbled by the course and too wasted to continue up to Rattlesnake Ridge,
where more snow was waiting. Except for John Barrickman, who wanted to continue
but no one wanted to go with him. George, Deby, and I got a ride to Tiger and
tried to put together at least 100K, but we bailed at about 45 miles. That was
in May 2013.
Deby and I decided that we would try again over the July
4th weekend that same year. We had a lot of great pacers and crew but
the pacing duty that she did for Jonathan Shark at one of the hottest Western
States less than a week before caught up with her and she had to stop at 100K.
Being the tough and generous gal that she is, she crewed me the last 35 miles
and Tracy Brown paced me.
Even though Deby could not complete it with me, it was a magical run with
fireworks throughout the night and amazing company of crew and pacers, who met
us all along the way. You can read my full report in an earlier post.
The next person to complete the Issy 100 was Ras Jason
Vaughan. He did it unsupported in wintry conditions. Such an amazing feat
because I know how hard it is with support. Then it was Jennifer Hughes, who did
it in the exact same time as I did, so we shared the FKT for a while.
I again ran it on the July 4th weekend in 2014
with Jess Mullen and Deb McInally. Leni Karr completed the 100K and has the FKT for that. George also completed the 100K but since he set out to do the 100 mile, he did not get credit for it. We improved on the FKT by 2 hours, but Jess and Deb could have completed
it sooner. They were nice enough to wait for my dragging butt. Again, we had
amazing pacing and crew support. So much so that we dubbed it the Sissy Issy
because we didn’t have to carry heavy packs for the entire 100. There is a race
report for that, too.
George attempted the 100 again a few months later, but rain
dampened his success and he got very cold in the higher elevations. He was wise
to save it for another day. Tim and Angel Mathis completed the 100K in 2014 as well.
All this time, there had been talk about doing the Issy 100
in reverse. I think Matt Hagen, in all his strangeness, came up with the idea
first. He also wanted to be the first one to do it, but work and life got in the
way. We decided that we would do it together this year and set the date. I again
got together stellar pacers and crew, not as much as the Sissy, but just as
critical. I crossed my fingers that the weather would be nice enough to be
comfortable. It is always a gamble to run in April. Sure enough, snow dumped in
the mountains a week before our attempt but it warmed up enough that most of it
melted, except for on Teneriffe. The weather during the run was absolutely
perfect. Temps ranged from the low 40s to upper 60s. I am a hot runner, so this
was great, although I still overheated. The nice thing about running this early
in the year also is that there is not much brushy overgrowth, which is miserable
in July. What we did have were spider webs-lots of them! I prepared as much as I
could before this run. It’s not something that you just do and hope that
everything comes together. I ran the Gorge Waterfall 100K and 50K double to
train time on the feet and running fatigued. I still have not figured out the
perfect combination of water and salt, but worked on that the best that I could
before the Issy. I sent multiple e-mails to my minions, went out with Jeff
Forister the weekend before to place a rope across the Raging River, and dropped
water at 4 locations. I dropped off a large cooler at Leni’s house Thursday
morning with hopefully all the stuff I would need for day 2. I didn’t race
after the Gorge and did easier and shorter runs. I dropped 5-6 pounds because I
didn’t want to carry extra weight for 106 miles. I was ready.
Ken dropped me off that the Lower Parking lot at Tiger where
we met Matt, who would have his car there when we went through it again. We
packed enough food for 22 miles. I kissed Ken goodbye and we jogged up the dirt
road to the upper parking. We had started at 6:02 am. Things felt easy and
pleasant in the beginning because it was still cool. The Brink Trail was the
only real challenge in the beginning. It is very technical, but on fresh legs,
not so bad. At the end of the downhill version of the Issy, it is torture. We
had a short 3 miles on Tiger before Front Street and Sycamore Lane on our way up
to Squak. Up and over Squak (not to the summit) 5.4 miles. We arrived at the
Cougar-Squak connector just under 2 hours, 30 minutes ahead of my predicted, but
it was not because we were pushing the pace. I just overestimated the time it
would take to get there. I am familiar with how long it would take at the end of
100 miles, but with fresh legs, clearly we were moving better. We did have to
wait about 5 minutes to cross SR 900 because of the morning commute traffic. I
had dropped water off at the connector and I refilled. I was trying to avoid
eating gels early on and was fueling myself with Costco Blueberry Muffins
(almost 700 calories per muffin), potstickers, and Jimmy John sub sandwiches. I
would take one gel every 2 hours in the first half of the run.
We finished the Cougar loop also about 30 minutes faster than
predicted. Now we were an hour ahead of schedule. Matt kept having to text Betsy
and tell her that she needed to get moving to be there in time for our meet up.
We went back up and over Squak in the time predicted-1 ½ hrs. We met her at mile
22 at the Issaquah High School Tiger Parking at 11:30 am, 5 ½ hours into our
run, one hour ahead of predicted. She had amazing fresh spring rolls with peanut
sauce. I stuffed myself with 2 and I think Matt had 4! It kept me fueled for
quite a while up the next section of Tiger of 13.1 miles. I changed into
another pack but didn’t like it as much. I knew I wanted to change back at the
next stop.
It was getting warm now and the climb up One View and Poo Poo was fatiguing. We
made it to Upper Bootleg towards Tiger 1 and went above the blow downs. This
slowed us enough that we were getting back on schedule. We stopped briefly on
Tiger 1 for a pic and then pressed on. We made our way to T2 and T3, then the
long descent to the lower parking. We took the trail down this time from upper
to lower parking where Vivian was waiting with McDs hamburger, fries, and
milkshake as requested. The milkshake was amazing. I drank all of that. I saved
the hamburger for the trail. I couldn’t eat the fries for some reason. I think
they were too dry for me, but in the past I was able to. I brushed my teeth for
the second time (I tried to do this every 20 miles) and we were off again!
Vivian had ice water, which was much needed and had all kinds of other food,
like oranges, salt tabs, gels, and apple sauce.
We said hi to a few tent city people as we headed to the High
Point trail. Then it was just up and up and up. This was really tough because I
never go in this direction and it seemed to last longer than I expected. Plus,
we got off trail and added on about 1 mile or 15-20 minutes. Once we got to East
Tiger Trail, I was starting to feel better. There is a new section of the East
Tiger Trail and it is longer than the old one. Matt suggested that we try to
find the old one but I wanted to keep the route the same as I had done before.
The whole time we were running, Matt was cold and I was hot. So when we popped
out of the trail onto the dirt road up the East Tiger Summit, I suggested that
he sit in the sun while I made the short out and back to the peak. He had
already decided that he was only going to take me to Highway 18 as promised then
stop. He had run a sub 21 hour at Umstead 100 three weeks before and paced Betsy
at Lumberjack 50 miles the weekend before this run. His body needed some
downtime but he was kind enough to suffer through nearly 50 miles with me.
We arrived at Highway 18 back on schedule after getting off
trail, which was 46 miles and 12 hours 25 minutes. Ken was waiting there with my
Yoda, my 8 ½ month pit bull.
I was so happy to see them! Ken brought pizza and
coke. Also, George, Jenn, and Jeff were there. Everyone except for Jenn was
drinking beer. George let me know that he went out that morning to check out
Teneriffe for me. He tried on Thursday but turned around. It was so nice of him
to go out again and mark the trail! At that point, I said goodbye to
Matt. He got a ride back to his car from Ken, which was good because then he
could pick up my bags in Matt’s car. I switched to my Salomon pack including my
spikes and poles, in case there was now on Rattlesnake. I also carried an extra
Ultimate Scott Jurek pack because I forgot to put it into my drop at Leni’s
house. Bottom line, I was carrying a lot.
I ate a piece of pizza (probably should have had 2) and
packed one to go, which I nibbled at later but didn’t really finish. But I was
actually feeling better at that point. Probably because it was getting cooler
and my body really liked that. Now it was Jenn, her dog Nellie, Jeff, and I. We
ran into a bunch of mountain bikers since this is their territory. They were all
really nice. A few miles of single track, then the service road, and then
unmaintained trails down to the Raging River. It was about 7:30 at this point
and still light out. That was nice so that we could still see the rocks that we
were stepping on in the river. And having the rope was a bonus. My legs were
pretty worked and I didn’t want to submerge trying to cross, like Nellie!
We were able to travel about another 40 minutes before we
donned our headlamps at about 8 pm when we went into the woods and everything
became dark. Finally made it to the Rattlesnake trail, where there was another
water drop. Leni had gone out earlier in the morning to scope out the snow and
texted me that traction was not needed. This was wonderful, because that would
have been very slow going. I continued to eat and drink well enough to keep a
decent pace. It was nice having Jenn and Jeff’s company. They kept the
conversation going and I just listened. This is how I prefer it. I allotted 7
hours from Highway 18 to Rattlesnake, but it was looking like 5 hours. I texted
Deby that I would be arriving at Little Si earlier than expected. I had dropped
water off at the lake end but Kathleen was meeting us with soup. I was glad she
was there so I could hand her the water and not have to make a special trip out
to retrieve after finishing. Kathleen arrived just a minute or so before we got
there. OMG-timing could not have been more perfect. She had hot baked potato
soup and bread. That was really good. She brought her daughters. It was 11:30
pm. I had put on a thin shell at this point in case I got cold, which I did when
we stopped, but for the most part, I spent the evening running in shorts and
T-shirt.
We headed down the Snoqualmie Valley Trail towards Leni’s
house. It was 2 ½ miles to her house and we ran the entire way. She had placed
little pigs on glow in the dark clothes pin on the trail foliage that went to
her house.
When we had met the day before, we decided where the cooler was going to be
placed. I grabbed a bunch of food, extra clothing, drank some coke, and changed
my shoes and socks, which at that point was really nice because my feet were
starting to swell in my narrower Salomon Fellraisers. The Missions had more toe
space and they were happier. Got back on the trail and ran to the overpass next
to the road. After crossing the road, ran again to Mt. Si road. So we were
making good time and when we arrived at Little Si trailhead, Deby had not
arrived yet, but they were just about there. Deby’s son Myc dropped her off and
drove Jenn and Jeff back to their cars at Hwy 18. We got there at around 1 am.
My targeted time was 3 am.
I got cold from stopping and drinking another milkshake.
Again, I could not eat the fries. I packed my hamburger for later and ate a
couple of chicken nuggets. I had also asked for 2 apple pies, but they only had
one. That tasted really good later and went down well. I was shivering by the
time Deby and I left, so I packed a bunch of extra cloths, food, and even Jenn’s
shell. I was wearing just about everything when we left, but ½ a mile up the
trail, I was overheating and had to strip down to my T-shirt. I never got cold
for the rest of the run, even when we were at 5000 ft on Teneriffe with snow all
around and a light breeze. I had capris on over my shorts. Initially, I started
out with poles but soon found that I didn’t need them and they were getting in
my way of eating. The climb to Little Si and back was uneventful. It was the
next climb up the back side of Mt. Si that just about killed me. The pace up
Little Si was a little swift so I knew I needed to slow it down for this climb
and it was a good thing I did. I would have worn myself out if I pushed it up
those 4 miles to the base of Haystack. The pace was perfect for Deby since she
had just run Lumberjack 100 the weekend before. She has paced me in so many of
my adventures, it feels natural and normal to have her by my
side.
Finally, we peaked out and headed down. I took it easy,
because I can wear myself out on downhill running too, especially if it is
technical. I know a lot of people recover on the downhill, but I do not. Two
miles later, we were at the Talus loop trail and I looked for the water that I
had stashed the previous weekend. I looked everywhere and I could not find it. I
put it behind a tree next to a creek where water was flowing down. I wonder if
the heavy rain washed it down and someone might have picked it up. Needless to
say, I didn’t refill but Deby said she had plenty of water. I was drinking less
at that point because I was peeing regularly moderate amounts. I realized later
that the gels were making me pee so in fact, I was becoming dehydrated more and
more. We arrived at the Talus trail about 5:30 am, or 23 ½ hours. It was still a
little dark when I stubbed my right big toe against a rock. That sent a zinger
to my big toe joint, the most painful thing I did during the entire run. I
ran/walked it out and it took about 10 minutes to calm down. That toe is going
to be the end of my running someday I think. It is my weak link.
We made it to the Teneriffe service road. It was just getting
light. We were able to take off our headlamps about 30 minutes up the road. That
was nice to get it off my head but just made my pack heavier. I wasn’t eating
enough of my food to lighten the load. We normally run down this road, but I did
do it once uphill in training during our reverse 50K (Little Si to Mailbox). It
was so much harder now than before. We did see a gorgeous sunrise and amazing
views of Rainier.
Fortunately the road eases up after 2-3 miles but that was when we started to
encounter snow. We put on our spikes and traction was better but the surface was
uneven from previous users, so it was a lot of work to get through this area.
Poles helped to stabilize you but the back and knees were getting a beating.
Just as I was becoming despondent that we weren’t getting anywhere, I turned a
corner and saw George’s signage “Issy Alps à” Oh George! Thank you! It just made me
smile and I was excited to show Deby.
After this, it was another slow mile through the snow. Again an eternity to get
to the peak. We sat down briefly to get a pic and descended. We saw one guy
reaching the peak as we headed down, then no one else for a while.
The descent was easier on the lungs but harder on the legs.
So steep and slippery. The spikes really made a difference. By now, my mouth was
pretty dry from all the heavy breathing. I was still fooled that I was hydrated
because I was peeing, but I was probably pretty dehydrated. We stopped to eat
some real food. Deby gave me a veggie pizza slice and I ate most of that. We
decided to take off our spikes. We had left them on for a long time after the
snow was gone because they still helped with traction in the mud. I was
concerned that we were not on the right trail but Deby confirmed on her phone
that we were and after a few more steps down, Leni called out to us. We had
received a text that she was on her way up with food and water after learning
that I had no water at my last drop.
Another half mile and we were down on the main trail, which
is very technical still if you have ever been on it. It seemed like I was
tumbling down the trail but still able to stay upright. Next thing you know,
here comes George. He was getting bored waiting for us down at the cars. So the
4 of us trotted down the trail, which again was longer than I remembered it and
so very rocky. Encountered many more people out to see the Kamikaze/Teneriffe
falls.
Finally reached the service road, so another 1.6+ miles to
the cars. DNR or someone has been doing a lot of work on the Teneriffe road,
narrowing it to make it look more like a trail. We arrived at Teneriffe
trailhead about 11 am (29 hours), still about ½ hour ahead of my schedule, but I
had lost a lot of my cushion from traveling in the snow. At least I still felt
pretty good. Leni was there and so was Chris Fagan. They had everything laid out
for me and I could just pick and choose what I needed. I am glad I carried my
Ultimate pack overnight to put in the drop cooler. So great to get my heavy pack
off me. Leni had watermelon, popsicles, pizza, cold coke, and more. I ate what I
could. I changed clothes. New sports bra, shirt, underwear, and shorts. I felt
like a new woman when we left and thanked everyone for all their help. Myc was
there to take Deby to work. She had some work to do that day! What an amazing
woman. I had spent about 15 minutes there and we left at 11:15
am.
We headed up the road to the CCC trail. The last time we were
here was during the reverse 50K training run. We had been chased down by a very
angry man who lived on that road. He was chasing us in his road grater yelling,
“Get off this road, this is a private road!!!” Turns out he has dementia. Leni
had talked to Deb McInally who knows a woman who lives on that road too and she
talked to Eric, the guy with dementia. So hopefully he was not going to bother
us. We made it to the gate without seeing him and I breathed a sigh of relief.
We hiked up to the top of the hill then ran the 2 miles to the trail turn off. I
felt light and springy and was sure that I was running about 9 minute miles.
Then I looked at my Garmin after running a mile and it showed that my “fast”
mile was only 10:40. Just shows you how altered your view of things are after so
many miles.
George led the whole way, and I was thankful because there
was a ton of spider webs across the trail, usually about face level. I still
felt good and moved along well. We encountered a black bear just before we got
to the Middle Fork road and Snoqualmie River. George had spotted his paw prints
well before we saw him. I’m sure the bear could smell me from miles away. It was
getting pretty warm now but fortunately, when we were in the trails, it was
pleasant. I was able to hike up that steep trail to the Green Mountain trail
strong. George was amazed to find that it was not in good as a shape as when we
were on it last. That might have been due to the heavy rains the weekend before.
Everyone thinks there is only one more big climb after Teneriffe-Mailbox. But
there are very steep sections in this part of the run. The next three miles are
gradual downhill, winding, sometimes rocky single track. I had pushed the pace
too hard leading up to this point and I was starting to fade. I should have been
able to enjoy this section and cruise it, but I was tired and wobbly. Again, it
seemed endless.
I arrived at Mailbox earlier than expected and Leni had to
speed in just in time to see me. Actually, I had only been there for about 3
minutes when she arrived. I got there at 2 pm (32 hours)-the last section taking me 2 hours
and 45 minutes, compared to the 4-5 hours that I had allotted. Leni had brought 2
milkshakes. I drank the chocolate one and George had strawberry. I tried to eat
some real food but was unable. Leni had some grilled cheese, but it did not seem
appealing to me. Looking back, I should have tried to eat some of it. I loaded
my pack up with gels, Power Wafers, and took a bag of Cheetos. Jeff came back to
help me finish with George. I thanked Leni for all her help and we started to
climb up the steep hill. I didn’t bring my poles because I didn’t want to carry
the extra weight and needed my hands to eat. There were still a lot of people
out hiking Mailbox and I was passed easily by all of them.
It became clear as I was trying to make my way up Mailbox
that this was going to take me a really long time. I had not packed a headlamp,
thinking I would be done well before dark. With each step, I became more
nauseous, so low on calories and so hard to take more in. I tried to eat a gel,
but you know how that goes when you’re nauseous. Plus, it was making me pee a
lot and I kept getting weaker. Jeff had Ensure with him and let me have that. It
helped. I started to move up the mountain better. It took almost 3 hours to get
to the top, but when Jess and I had done it a couple weeks before with more
snow, it took us 2 hours so I was not feeling too bad about myself yet. I even
passed 4 people on that last scramble up to the Mailbox. One guy looked so bad,
he just plopped down and looked totally spent. I think he was taken down by ATV
by Search and Rescue, who were there in the upper parking when we finished. They
made the new MB trail wide enough to fit an ATV. That ride alone would be scary
I would think. My goal for the entire weekend was to avoid using Search and
Rescue.
We sat briefly before descending. There were a lot of people
still on the peak. I think they all took the new trail down because I was not
passed by a lot of people on the descent, even though I was moving at a snail’s
pace. I had my spikes on for the short section of snow and mud and kept them on
for better traction downhill because at this point, my quads stopped working.
Halfway down that rocky scramble, I became pretty wobbly and had to borrow
Jeff’s pole. Then I had to grab a stick for the other side to balance myself
out. I had to take deliberate steps every time there was a drop. There was no
reprieve from the steep descent. Really, very few sections where it leveled out.
I was whining and insecure, but Jeff and George kept encouraging me, telling me
what an amazing thing I was doing, and trying to get me to see the bright side
of things. I had to stop and lean back on a tree a few times, but I had to get
moving because the sun was going down. At least my muscles were not twitching.
The likelihood that I would just have a full blown cramp was not as great, and
that was reassuring. I have experienced full blown cramping of all my muscles in
my legs before (in my first 100 mile with 95 degree temps) and it was the most
painful thing I had ever experienced. Finally, after many “false bottoms,” we
arrive at the old trail trailhead. Now just the hike down to the lower parking.
No sprinting in to the finish. Just a slow and shuffling end. Ken was there with
Yoda, who came screaming towards me and I was worried he was going to knock me
over. But I was so thrilled to see him and Ken.
Ken had cold beers for Jeff and George and a cold coke for
me. Surprisingly, I was able to change without cramping and get in the car right
away to drive George to his van. Usually, I need about an hour for my legs to
scrunch into a car. We met Leni out at the truck stop area. I got all my stuff
back. She had brought George’s van there. Such amazing help. I mustered a weak
thank you and Ken whisked me away towards home. On the way, we stopped and got
some Taco Time. When we got home, I ate one Taco, a few Mexi-fries, and some
water. I took a nice hot shower and went to bed. Normally, I cannot get
comfortable enough to fall asleep but this time, I passed out. I had to get up
to pee in the middle of the night and had planned on getting something to eat,
but that would have meant going down the stairs and I just didn’t have the
energy to do that. So I went back to bed and had a good night’s
rest.
Today, three days after finishing, I feel pretty good. The
tightness in my calves has improved. The nerve pain in my feet are better. I
feel more rested. I was feeling really down on myself on Mailbox, thinking I was
such a loser to take 6 hours to do that up and down. It negated what an
incredible first 100 miles I had run, which included about 32,000 feet of
elevation gain I think. I would say total elevation for the run was 36,000 feet
with Mailbox and the entire run was 106 miles. This is definitely a classic and
if you want to do it, I can give you all kinds of advice. For all those that
helped me, I am ready to pace or crew you when you want to attempt it
yourself!
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